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More Than Just A Kit Car

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Stripping

First of all before we started stripping the car a check was made of what did and didn’t work. This is to ensure that when it’s all put back on the Beauford we won’t be chasing our tail trying to find faults that were there on the donor car in the first place. Thankfully everything worked that will be needed. Any faults on the Beauford now will be an installation problem and not a component failure.
The car was then placed securely on fully extended axle stands all round to give reasonable access to the underside.

The front suspension / steering could have been removed as a complete unit and just bolted straight onto the Beauford as we have seen with some other builds. We have chosen to refurbish all of our component parts, so to make it easier to undo all of the tight nuts and bolts and to split the ball joints it was dismantled whilst still on the donor car, not having to chase the assembly around the garage floor later.

I’m not going to go into great detail here as its basic nut and bolts. The sequence of stripping was:-

1:  Both front road wheels removed.
2:  Anti roll bar bush nuts and washers removed.
3:  Lower arm ball joints split from hub carriers.
4:  Lower arms unbolted from cross member and removed. (Bolts put back into cross member as they will be reused)
5:  Anti roll bar clamps unbolted from chassis, (Clamps marked as to which way round and what side of the car they fit) and the anti roll bar removed.
6:  Track rod ends split from the hub carriers.
7:  Steering column to steering rack joint loosened to allow rack removal.
8:  Power steering pipe between the rack and the pump, union disconnected from the pump and drained into a container.
9:  Power steering pipe from the reservoir to the rack disconnected.
10: Two bolts removed that go through the rack into the cross member. (From the top)
11: Rack removed.
12: Hub carrier clamp bolts removed, plenty of WD40 here as they are prone to snapping.
13: Brake pipes removed ad fluid drained.
14: Hub carriers persuaded! away from the struts with a large hammer and more WD40. (Would have been worth soaking these the day before with WD40)
15: The engine was securely supported on blocks and then the lower engine mount nuts removed.
16: Finally the four cross member bolts were undone and the cross member removed from the car.

The propshaft on our donor is of a two piece type. First job here was to mark the propshaft and differential flange with a line so when it is refitted it can go back in the same place. It shouldn't make any difference providing the prop is balanced correctly, that said when it goes back in on the Beauford I want it positioned back where it came from just in case. Next, the heat shield was removed and then the other end of the prop was marked in relation to the rubber donut on the gearbox output. This needs to go back in the same place as the prop is balanced from new with the donut fitted. Four cap head bolts hold this on; access to get the Allen key into them is limited and could only be done by rotating the prop so each bolt in turn could be undone.
Thankfully the centre support bearing was much easier, just undoing the two nuts to release it.
Finally the four propshaft to diff bolts were undone and the prop removed from the car. The bolts securing the flange and donut were saved for reassembly on the Beauford.

 

 

The exhaust system on our car looks pretty much new so we will try and reuse this. The mid and rear boxes were unbolted as one unit from the cat. Next the cat was removed and then the front pipe from the manifold (firstly disconnecting the lambda sensor and marking up the loom). The front pipe to manifold bolts were a pain to get to whilst lying under the car with multiple extension bars on the ratchet (wish it was over the pit in my garage!). Plenty of WD40 and some grazed knuckles later and the nuts came free.

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